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A Water Dragon's cage is very important. I reccomend a forest or jungle vivarium to house your dragon. This is what your dragon will prefer. Remember to keep the cage misted heavily. The humidity should be about 80%. This is important in keeping your dragon from becoming stressed. Using an 8oz. mister, use almost all of it to keep from having to constantly re-mist your dragon's cage.
The medium you choose is also imprtant in successfully keeping your dragon. I discourage the use of Astro-turf, as it is too harsh and can rub your dragon's underbelly raw. Shredded eggcarton material is an ideal way to go. This substrate retains humidity and is easy to maintain because if your dragon messes this material, you don't have to remove all of it to keep the cage clean. One negitive aspect of this substrate is that your dragon can accidentally ingest the material while eating. If you decide to use this, watch your dragon while he is eating to be sure he/she doesn't eat some of it. Another alternitive (and the best)is to use a soft,non-abrasive carpet-like material such as Zoo Med's Repti Cage Carept. This material is absorbent, pulling waste away from your dragon's underside. Some people use newspaper, personally I have never tried this and feel that it just looks too boring. Other than those mentioned, I do not reccomend any other means of a substrate for your reptiles vivarium.
I do reccomend a climbing branch for your dragon as they will enjoy it to rest and play on. If you use a stick you have found in your backyard, be sure to boil it in 300 degree water in order to kill any parasites that could harm your dragon. Or, you could buy a pre-treated branch from your local pet store. I think that as long as you are able to boil the branch, it is fine to find your own branch. The ones the pet store sells are often outragously expensive, sometimes going up to $20! There are also nylon mesh climbing furniture, I have not used these before, but I imagine they work well.
Your Dragon's water bowl is also important. This is the primary place where your Dragon will go to the bathroom, the only place he will drink, and a nice place for him to bathe. The water level should be at least 50% of your Dragon's height, but not so much so that your Dragon has trouble keeping his head above the water. As I mentioned earlier, the water bowl is the primary spot where your Dragon will use the bathroom. (Only rarely will your Dragon deficate anywhere but the water bowl) You will need to change the water immediatley (unless your Dragon is still in the bowl!) after you notice the waste in the water to keep your Dragon from accidentaly drinking some of the dirty water. For adult Dragons, many people use kitty litter pans as a water bowl. This is the best and most economical choice. For smaller Dragons, I reccomend a water bowl specially made for lizards. For baby Dragons and especially small Dragons, I use pot-pie tins. This works well, but after awhile, the rims tend to get bent out of shape. DO NOT use a bucket or bucket shaped water bowl as some Dragons can get in but have a hard time getting out. Not only that, it is the wrong shape for a Water Dragon. I strongly discourage the use of these types of water bowls.
This is a good choice if you have multiple dragons or can't find a vivarium big enough. However, you do have to be quite good with your hands. A sliding glass door in the front is problably the best type of door. Also be sure to leave some kind of screened top or built-in sockets for lighting. (If you do decide to make built-in sockets, be sure that your Dragon(s) can't come in direct contact with the light. This could badly burn your beloved lizards, leaving permanent damage.) Wood is the most common and most effective method used for making the sides if the vivarium. Be sure to chose a good looking as well as strong piece(s) of wood as staining or painting would not be a good idea in the respect that the fumes from these substances could be harmful to your Dragon.
The primary prey of your Dragon is crickets. These small insects can be found at almost all pet stores. My Dragon is a juniviele and eats about 8-10 average size crickets per day. In order to keep your Dragon from acquiring metobolic bone disorder, you should dust the crickets you feed your Dragon with a calcium supplement. Most cases of metebolic bone disorder are not caused by too little calcium, but by the wrong calcium: phosphouros ratio. I reccomend a calcium supplement that is phosphourous-free. A cricket's c:p ratio is 0.13 : 1. When your Dragon grows older, he can eat pinkie mice. Most people feed their Dragon the mouse already dead. This is the more humane way to go. Pinkie mice's c:p ratio is 0.89 : 1. (only feed your Dragon one pinkie mouse per week.) Some Dragons will also eat vegetables. You do not need to dust the veggies, but they should not make up more than 10% of your Dragon's diet. Then again, some Dragons refuse veggies altogether. If you do decide to feed your Dragon veggies, be sure to shred them so that he won't choke!
Don't move the mouse on the boxes below
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